By: AMAYA HENRY / ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR
New York Fashion Week.
Six days of the year that fashion moguls and civilians alike look forward to. This is especially true for this year’s show, as last year’s was online due to COVID-19. Although some of the bigger names like Tom Ford pulled out this year, there were still many amazing looks to see.
These are two looks from Gabriela Hearst’s Autumn Winter 2022 Collection that debuted on Feb.15. I loved these two pieces in particular because of their sleek look. The fire multi-cashmere artisanal hand peacock crochet dress is subtle, yet it possesses a demanding quality. The way that each of these pieces outlines the model’s silhouettes is very complementary. The jewels on the dress worn by Quannah Chasinghorse added a pop to the overall darkness of the dress. Another aspect of this show that I liked was that Hearst incorporated models of various backgrounds, making it very inclusive. In addition, according to Vogue, Hearst’s collection was 50 percent deadstock and recycled materials. Going into the fall and winter seasons I think that we will be seeing more use of recycled materials to promote a sustainable vision for the fashion industry. I also think that we will be seeing more long and form fitting dresses, like the ones pictured here, in the near future.
Although Peter Do’s first runway show debuted last September, he has been working quietly and patiently on his pieces for the last four years. This collection was called “Foundation”, because as Do stated, “Now, it’s time to break ground.” Foundation lays down the groundwork for the house we intend to build. Focusing on innovation rather than novelty, the collection cements the Peter Do essentials with revisited signature silhouettes from our inaugural collections, updated and refined with the knowledge we’ve learned over the past four years,” Do said. I loved this collection’s modern spin on work clothes. Do took regular work attire, like a button up, and made it longer while also taking off the sleeves, thus making it a trench scarf. Although these were seemingly small gestures, they proved to have large impacts. A common theme I saw with Do’s pieces was that they were matching neutral sets. I thought it was interesting that he chose to stay neutral instead of including loud and vibrant colors. This gave his pieces a relaxed, yet powerful tone as their messages could be conveyed through their layout rather than their color. For the coming fall and winter season, I see various styles of suits coming into play.
I loved the vibe of the Tanner Fletcher collection titled, “Housewarming Party.” The collection was a blast from the past as it was inspired by the 1970s. The show took place at the Gramercy’s Freehand Hotel, which originally opened in 1928, in a 1970s themed living room. I loved that Tanner Fletcher’s pieces are genderless, a choice made intentionally by co-founders Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell. Since this collection was supposed to be a glimpse into the past, the pictures reflect that as well. Similarly to Peter Do’s work, Tanner Fletcher took old and traditional pieces and added spunk to them. The little details like how the model’s hair was styled, their accessories, and their posture should also be noted. I adored the full length orange floral printed puffer jacket with the orange boots. Full length coats are another trend that I see in the upcoming seasons.
Colin LoCascio’s line screamed funky in the best way possible with colors, prints, and patterns galore. It was like all my childhood favorites came together which certainly triggered nostalgia. This makes sense as LoCascio is known for his “eccentric and well-beyond wacky creations.” In regards to the inspiration for his fall collection, LoCascio stated, “I looked to my favorite bridge-and-tunnel ladies from TV: Adriana from The Sopranos, Betty Suarez from Ugly Betty, and of course, Fran Fine from The Nanny. Each character has her own defined style and I was interested in mixing the sexy, the quirky, and the absurd into this season’s collection.” I also loved these fashion icons growing up, so this is why I felt a particular connection to this collection. In particular, the full length multi-patterned and multi-textured coat stood out to me. Like Hearst’s collection, LoCascio’s is also eco-friendly, as his pieces, including this jacket, were made from vegan leather. This jacket is very versatile and can match with many different pieces.
Last, but certainly not least is the Social-Work collection titled, “Memory Dialogue.” The designer behind Social-Work, Helen Zhang, detailed in an interview that she “wanted to create a space that converses emotions and feelings in a post-pandemic environment.” An aspect from this collection that I liked was the sense of comfort that was felt through the pieces. The black slippers worn with the pencil skirt and the relaxed stances of the model exemplifies this. They are not very loud pieces, but their presence is felt. I also loved the contrast between the black top and the purple skirt, yet they are derived from the same material which unites them. Zhang also took a symbol from the spring and summer collection, the flower in the center of the top, and incorporated it into this collection which is another aspect I was fond of.